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September 21, 2021 8 min read
Lash adhesive is one of the most important tools for lash artists. It truly doesn't matter what brand of lashes you use or how awesome your lashing skills are — if your lash glue isn't performing at optimum strength, your client's lashes won't stick. Ensuring great eyelash extension retention is a fundamental aspect of keeping your clients happy and coming back.
Retention (or poor retention) is a common concern for lash pros because clients won't keep coming back if their lashes fall off. There are multiple reasons for poor retention, but in this post, we'll focus on the most common: lash adhesive being used and stored incorrectly.
Lash Technicians rely on Cyanoacrylate, the key ingredient that gives the lash glue its unique curing properties. This compound ensures the eyelash extension glue dries in a matter of seconds and holds the lashes firmly in place for several weeks. Basically this is the ingredient that actually makes the lash glue stick to the hair cuticles and actually last!
Cyanoacrylate-based adhesives typically require a humidity range of 45-55% and a room temperature of 20-24 degrees Celsius (66-75 degrees Fahrenheit) to work properly. Always check your lash adhesive label, as this range can differ slightly depending on the glue.
Lash adhesive needs to be stored in a climate-controlled environment because the weather can significantly impact your lash glue. Since the weather is constantly changing, you need to check your temperature and humidity regularly. If the humidity and temperature are not correct, the lash adhesive will not work properly and cause poor retention.
Lash glue should be stored away from other products in a dark, airtight container in a dry, cool location. Storing glue with a little silica packet helps absorb any excess moisture. Just because you are not in the process of lashing (overnight, for example), you still must regulate the temperature and humidity in the room to maintain optimal lash retention.
You should protect your lash adhesive from extreme temperatures. The ideal range is between 20-22 degrees Celsius (68-71 degrees Fahrenheit). High temperatures over 27 degrees Celsius (80 degrees Fahrenheit) are especially harmful and can degrade the adhesive, resulting in poor eyelash extension retention.
The humidity level in your lash studio or lash room can make or break your retention. It can also affect the dry time, and weather or not your are getting a secure bond to the natural lash. Each lash glue is a bit different. Check the back of the bottle for the ideal temperature and humidity for the specific lash glue you are using. Keeping the humidity of the lash room within the proper range of 45-55% is crucial. In order to do this, you may need a humidifier, dehumidifier, or both, depending on the day.
It's important to make sure your humidifier is warm mist. A silica packet helps absorb moisture. Use a hygrometer to check the humidity levels. While all of these items can seem expensive, they are worth the investment because your lash business will suffer if you have a problem with poor retention.
It's also important to store your lash glue away from sunlight in a dark, airtight glue storage container. Light will degrade your glue and cause poor results. This is especially important if your lash studio has big sunny windows. Make sure the adhesive is stored in shaded or dark place, even during your lash appointments!
Unopened bottles of lash adhesive can be stored in the refrigerator for up to six months from the date of purchase. But once your bottle of lash adhesive has been opened, it absolutely must not go back in the fridge.
Storing opened lash glue in the fridge can cause condensation to build up inside the bottle. The moisture degrades the adhesive and causes it to lose strength — resulting in poor lash retention. Personally I have never stored my lash adhesive in the fridge. I store it at room temperature, in a cool dry and dark place for best results. You might be wondering "how long does lash extension glue last?". Unopened lash glue should last up to 6 months when stored correctly, and opened lash glue lasts up to 30 days.
If air gets into the bottle of eyelash glue, it will significantly affect the freshness of your adhesive. Exposing adhesive to oxygen will shorten the life of the adhesive. You will notice this happens when you see a thick and gummy consistency or the lash glue bottle becomes clogged. Keep air from getting inside of the bottle by burping it with a gentle squeeze after every use. This will help remove air bubbles, and you will enjoy a longer shelf life of your adhesive.
After burping the bottle, wipe the nozzle with a lash adhesive nozzle wipe. This keeps the nozzle clean and prevents the bottle from being glued shut. Air also comes into play when applying lashes. Because lash glue cures very quickly, you may notice it becomes very sticky or goopy. If so, it's time for a new glue drop. One of the most important things to maximize your client's retention is to keep the lash glue dot fresh. You will typically need a new glue droplet every 15-20 minutes.
Properly stored unopened lash adhesive has a life expectancy of three to six months. But once opened, lash glue is only good for four weeks. Writing the date the bottle was opened on the glue package will help you keep track of the expiration date. Lash glue is one of those products that is best purchased fresh, so be careful not to overstock your lash glue supply.
Proper application techniques are crucial for long-lasting lash extensions. Ensure the base of the extension is securely bonded to the client’s natural lashes. Too much adhesive can lead to poor retention, so it's important to use the right amount. Using too little adhesive can also lead to retention issues, and lashes popping off prematurely. Pay attention to the small things, such as the angle of application and the placement of volume fans. These little things can make a big difference in the retention of your clients' lashes.
For optimal retention dip the lash extension 1.5-2mm into the lash glue drop. Slowly remove the lash extension from the glue and make sure the lash extension base is flush with the natural lash. Adjust your wrist accordingly if needed to make sure the lash extension base is not lifted. This is especially important with long eyelash extensions as they can be a little trickier to work with at first.
Retention issues can arise from various other factors, such as improper aftercare. Make sure clients are doing the following:
It's important to remember that we have different lash growth cycles. This means that lashes will shed on a regular basis, just like the hair on our heads. If a lash extension falls out, but it is attached to a natural lash this is not a cause for concern. It is normal for our lashes to slowly shed as new ones come in.
Sudden temperature fluctuations and high humidity can also affect lash retention. Ensure your lash room maintains a stable environment. Using an oxygen absorber in your lash adhesive storage can help maintain adhesive moisture levels. Personally I just use a small silica pack that comes with the lash glue. A small airtight container can also be used to store your lash glue in a dark, dry place, preventing separation of layers inside the bottle. As mentioned above, always keep an eye on the temperature and humidity and control them if needed.
Choosing the correct adhesive for your current skill level is sooo crucial! It's like wearing the right bra size, it makes the world of difference! One of the biggest reasons lash extensions are all popping off after an appointment is that the lash tech used a glue with the wrong dry time.
A beginner lash artist may take 2-3 seconds to apply a lash extension or lash fan. If the lash glue has a 1-2 second dry time, the glue will be drying onto the extension before the adhesive hits the natural lash. So although it may seem like the lash extension stuck onto the natural lash, it could pop off later because the glue didn't properly adhere to the natural lash.
The best way to sort this out is to time yourself (or have someone time you!). See how long it takes from the time you dip the lash extension, until it lands properly onto the natural lash. Make sure you don't rush this because the application technique is so important. There's no need to feel bad about needing a little extra time for your full sets as a beginner. I always recommend working on technique first, and timing second. The more you practice, the faster you will get in time. If you notice the lash adhesive is taking a long time to dry, time yourself again and see if you're ready for a glue with a faster dry time.
It doesn't matter if you have following all of the important tips listed above if your clients don't have clean lashes, the eyelash retention will not be good! Think about your nail polish application: the nail bed must be clean and wiped down with a remover in order for the nail polish to stick. It's the same idea with lash extensions, the lashes must be freshly cleaned in order for the lash extensions to last. This is aan especially crucial step for those clients that wear eye makeup. However, it is important to cleanse the lashes weather the client wears makeup or not. There are 2 options to ensure that your clients lashes are squeaky clean.
1. Ask your lash clients to arrive with freshly washed lashes. You can even set up a lash washing station so they can wash their lashes with a gentle lash safe cleanser upon arrival.
2. Give your clients a "lash bath". Cleanse the lashes using a gentle eyelash extension cleanser to ensure they are nice and clean.
I also recommend using a lash primer, especially on clients with oily skin or excess oil around their lashes. Starting the lash appointment with a clean base will help the adhesive bond to the natural lash and provide all-around better lash retention.
For beginner lash artists, understanding the curing process is essential. A longer drying time may be needed in low humidity, while high humidity can speed up the curing process. Regularly clean your lashes with a lash shampoo to remove any buildup that could affect adhesion. Following these essential tips will help you achieve optimal lash retention and have happy clients with beautiful lashes.
By following these comprehensive guidelines, you can ensure great retention and gorgeous lash extensions for your clients. From proper storage methods to understanding environmental factors, these top tips will help you become a successful lash technician in the lashing world. Choose the right lash adhesive, manage your room temperature and humidity, and educate your clients on proper aftercare to ensure long-lasting retention and beautiful results.
In conclusion, ensuring optimal lash retention requires attention to detail in every aspect of the application process. From the storage of your lash adhesive to the conditions of your lash room and the techniques used during application, every step plays a vital role in achieving long-lasting lash extensions. By implementing these tips and using high-quality products, you can overcome retention problems and provide your clients with the stunning lashes they desire.
Now that you know how to care for your lash adhesive correctly, choosing a premium lash glue will help you achieve the best results. We offer Rapid Eyelash Glue for intermediate and Expert glue for experienced artists. When you choose eslashes, you can be sure that you are getting the very best products on the market. Get great results — shop today!
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